Acha! mountain

Jeong Nan-jeong invited the greatest fortune teller of Joseon, Hong Gye-gwan, to her home.

Lately, she had been feeling uneasy, with restless dreams and an unsettled heart, so she decided to have her fortune told to see what the future would hold.

Having already become the official wife of Yoon Won-hyeong, who held the highest power,

she believed that only a path of roses awaited her, and thus sought to know her destiny. However, contrary to her expectations, Hong Gye-gwan gave her a fortune that foretold she would be poisoned.

When Yoon Won-hyeong heard this, he immediately petitioned the king, saying, "Hong Gye-gwan is disturbing the public and should be punished."

Hong Gye-gwan’s Trial and Fate

Before punishing Hong Gye-gwan, the king decided to test whether he was truly a great fortune teller or merely a deceiving charlatan.

The king placed an opaque wooden box in front of Hong Gye-gwan and commanded him to guess what was inside.

Hong Gye-gwan confidently said, "There is a rat inside." Surprised, the king asked again, "Then, how many rats are there? Guess again." According to his fortune, Hong Gye-gwan answered, "Three rats."

There was, in fact, only one rat in the box, but seeing that Hong Gye-gwan had said three, the king became furious.

"You are certainly a deceitful fortune teller," he exclaimed. "Take him away and execute him immediately."

Hong Gye-gwan was dragged away to be executed without the chance to explain himself. Facing his imminent death, he recalled his fortune.

"If I delay the execution until after the time of Han-shik, I might be able to escape death," the fortune had said. He begged the jailer for just a short delay.

The executioner thought, "If we can grant the wishes of the dead, why not grant the last wish of the living?"

He ordered the executioner to put down his sword.

At that moment, the king, struck by a sudden thought, ordered that the rat inside the box be dissected. Upon opening it, two baby rats were found inside.

As Hong Gye-gwan had predicted, there were indeed three rats. The king, deeply surprised, said, "Hong Gye-gwan is undoubtedly a person with supernatural powers. Immediately go and stop the execution!"

The messenger, upon receiving the king's command, urgently rode to the execution site.

From a distance, he saw the executioner raising his sword, about to strike Hong Gye-gwan’s neck.

"By royal command, halt the execution!" the messenger shouted urgently, waving his hand, but the executioner, afraid that delaying the execution might cause trouble, urged the executioner to hasten the death.

In the blink of an eye, the executioner's sword cut through the air.

By the time the messenger arrived, Hong Gye-gwan had already passed away. A man who had once held the highest position as a divine fortune teller was lost to the sword of execution.

The king, upon hearing the news, exclaimed, "Acha!" in regret, and it was after this that the mountain came to be known as 'Achasan,' according to a legend passed down through the ages.

The Scenery of Achasan

The trail begins at a boulder engraved with "Achasan." After a short climb along a gentle rocky hill, the "Goguryeo Pavilion" appears, marked with the name ‘Goguryeojeong.’

Though this pavilion is not an ancient monument, it is located in a spot that offers excellent views.

The hazy, misty sky somewhat blurs the scenery, but from the pavilion, nothing obstructs the view, making it feel as though the mind is being cleared.

In the distance, behind the Cheonho Bridge, the Lotte Building is faintly visible.

"If only the weather were a little clearer, we could fully appreciate the grandeur of its towering height," one might think. The mountains located within the city provide a great view as though looking down from the sky.

This place, too, offers the charm of enjoying both the Han River and city views simultaneously.

Looking at the Han River from the Viewing Platform

After taking a sip of water, I head back toward the summit. Viewing platforms alternating left and right emerge, offering stunning views of the surroundings.

From the left platform, a dense urban jungle of buildings is visible, while from the right, the Han River and the bridge spanning it appear like a beautiful painting. The river, flowing relentlessly for thousands of years, truly seems to be the lifeblood of this land of Han.

As I continue along the ridge, several fortresses (called 'boru') appear at regular intervals. It is said that there are 17 fortresses in the Achasan area.

These fortresses likely housed small garrisons, keeping watch for enemy invasions.

Some of these fortresses are designated as national cultural heritage sites and thus are off-limits to visitors.

While it is a pity not to be able to climb to each summit, there are plenty of cool viewing spots, so there’s no time for boredom.

This entire mountain, having once been a strategic military stronghold during the struggles for control of the Han River, now feels like a fortress built to prepare for war.

Looking out over the Han River and surveying the surroundings, it's clear why this place would have been a fierce battleground for the three kingdoms of Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla.

The Evolution of Seoul and Hong Gye-gwan’s Prediction

Could the three kingdoms have known that Seoul would one day grow to such prominence and prosperity?

Even the most skilled fortune tellers like Hong Gye-gwan would have had no way of predicting that hundreds of years later, this land would undergo such a transformation.

As I leisurely walk, I eventually reach the summit sign.

It feels like a lot of time has passed, but it hasn't even been an hour. Is this really the summit? I look around but find no signpost. The only thing I see is a metal plaque identical to the one I saw earlier, marked with "Achasan Summit, 297.5 meters" and "Achasan No. 3 Fortress."

I distinctly remember seeing a stone marker at the trail entrance that said 'Achasan,' but there’s nothing like that at the summit. Passersby seem indifferent as they head towards Yongmasan.

The Black Yak hiking app doesn't even offer certification at this location, and I can't take a single photo to prove I reached the summit. Instead, I feel a deep sense of emptiness.

It’s like I’ve spent the whole day helping others but haven’t earned a single penny for my trouble. I’m not prepared to hike all the way to Yongmasan, and I’m not in the mood for it either.

Sweat drenched from sunscreen, I wipe my face constantly, but my damp shirt sticks to my back, making me feel uncomfortable. At times like this, the best choice is to rush to a cold noodle shop and gulp down a bowl of noodles with ice floating in it. I quickly turn my steps in that direction.