Imal mountain

Imalsan Hiking Experience

"Imalsan" is a mountain known as the burial ground for palace women (gungnyeo). It is where many palace women, who died in the palace, were buried. During the Joseon Dynasty, graves were not allowed within 10 ri (about 4 kilometers) of the Hanyang (Seoul) city walls, a rule called "Seongjeoshipri" (城底十里). Imalsan, with its geographical characteristics of being neither too far nor too close to the capital, and blocked by Muaekjae and Bakseokgogae, became a collective burial site from the early Joseon period. Especially, many former palace women who had grown old and left the palace resided here, so it was only natural for this area to have many graves.

Palace women usually entered the palace at around 10 years old and spent their entire lives there. They often left the palace only when they were near death. They started as low-ranking maids (musu-ri), and after years of loyalty and dedication, could rise to the highest rank among palace women, the 5th-grade chief lady-in-waiting (sang-gung). Though there were rare exceptions where a woman caught the king's eye and quickly rose in rank, this was very uncommon.

All palace women belonged to the king, so they couldn’t marry, but they were responsible for the management of the palace and helped in the daily operations of the royal family.

Especially, the chief lady-in-waiting (sang-gung) was selected based on experience and trust, and their rank determined the hierarchy. Among the sang-gungs, the most senior one, the Jejo-sang-gung, commanded and directed all the palace women, while the Gamsal-sang-gung oversaw and evaluated their behavior. The Bomo-sang-gung was in charge of the upbringing of the princes and princesses.

One notable sang-gung buried in Imalsan is Lady Im (1635–1709), who served as the Bomo-sang-gung from King Injo to King Sukjong, caring for four different kings' children for about 40 years. Entering the palace at the age of 13, she devoted many years to the royal family, and her life is a representative example of the life of palace women at the time.

Intrigued by the story of Lady Im and her burial at Imalsan, I came to visit this place today. When I exited from Gupabal Station, I quickly found myself on the road leading up to the "Palace Women's Road" hill. It seemed to be a popular route, and the mountain path was well-maintained. Some people were dressed in casual walking clothes, while others, in hiking attire with large backpacks, seemed to be heading to the nearby Bukhan Mountain.

Despite arriving at the mountain, I saw no tombs. I had expected to find a royal burial site, but instead, the place looked like a military fortress. There were no signs of the palace women, only bomb shelters and bunkers, creating a chilling atmosphere. After walking a bit further, I reached the ridgeline of the mountain.

There was a badminton court, and several "sansujang" (outdoor fitness facilities) had been well established throughout the area. Through the trees, I could clearly see the majestic peaks of Bukhan Mountain. The massive mountain range seemed to block the flow of energy from Imalsan, which made me think that this place might have been an ideal burial site for the palace women.

As I continued along the ridgeline, signs explaining the life of palace women were placed along the path, detailing how they were selected, their duties in the palace, and their roles. Despite passing through all the informational signs, I still hadn’t encountered any tombs that resembled those of high-ranking palace women. I began to wonder whether I had missed the right path. After walking for 2 kilometers without finding anything, I decided to ask someone. They told me, "You need to go around to the back of Imalsan to reach the summit." Even so, I was still puzzled that I hadn’t encountered any tombs of sang-gungs or eunuchs.

I decided to turn back, but this time, I followed a path that led below the ridgeline. As I descended, I started seeing some grave stones, which I had seen pictures of on the internet. It turned out that the graves weren’t along the ridgeline, but rather along the southern slope of Imalsan.

The weathered gravestones, with inscriptions completely worn away, made it clear that the entire sunny side of Imalsan had been a burial site. I approached each of the gravestones, hoping to find one dedicated to Lady Im, but I couldn't identify whose grave was whose. Of the sang-gung graves that have been identified so far, Lady Im’s tomb is among the three that are known.

Frustrated by not finding Lady Im’s tomb, I continued wandering across the mountainside. Before I knew it, I had reached the end of the ridgeline. Searching for one specific grave in such a vast burial site felt like looking for a needle in a haystack. I had underestimated how difficult it would be to find it.

At this point, I decided to give up on finding Lady Im’s tomb and instead aimed to check out the summit. A few steps later, I reached the highest peak of Imalsan. The flat summit had several concrete bunkers, and there was a signpost that read "Imalsan 133 m". This sign was unlike typical summit markers, with the inscription on a large wooden board that gave it a unique, rural school reunion vibe.

On the back of the sign, there was a phrase that read, "Erected to comfort the souls of those left behind in Imalsan and to face the capital city." It seemed that someone had placed the sign to soothe the spirits of the many palace women who had passed away, silently resting while facing Hanyang, the city they had served their entire lives.

Lady Im lived during the same time as the famous palace women like Jang Hee-bin and Queen Sunbin Choi, but unlike them, she did not rise to the king’s favor. While Jang Hee-bin and Queen Sunbin Choi found fame as their sons ascended to the throne, Lady Im quietly did her duty, devoted to the royal children without ever seeking recognition. Despite witnessing the power struggles and fierce intrigues of the royal court, she endured with patience, focusing on her responsibilities as the Bomo-sang-gung.

After her death, she was honored by the king, who personally inscribed a memorial for her. Lady Im’s life wasn’t flashy, but it was full of dedication and sincerity. Remembering her is a chance for us to recognize the deeper values in our own lives.

Although I didn’t find Lady Im today on this mountain, I hope that in this life she has been reincarnated, perhaps to roam freely around the world, far from the confines of the palace, and enjoy a journey filled with adventure.

As I walked down the "Palace Women's Road" of Imalsan on this cold winter day, I concluded my brief journey with the palace women of the Joseon Dynasty and made my way toward the subway station."

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